Welcome Kyra and Rick to Newly Salted! Read this interview as originally published on their blog.
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We are Rick and Kyra, our homeport
is Victoria, BC, Canada.
Our floating home is the sailing vessel Nyon. A Lapworth 36, Nyon is a
54 year
old wooden sailboat that we refitted over a period of 4 years.
(Admittedly we
are still in the process of refitting her, but she is a solid bluewater
boat.)
We have been cruising full-time for 15 months. In September 2011, we
sailed from Canada, down the west coast of the United States, and into
Mexico. We have been cruising in
Mexico since November 2011. We are now in the Sea of Cortez. It is our
hope to
continue cruising for as long as it is possible (and fun), stopping to
replenish the cruising kitty when need be. There are still countless
places we
would like to explore, including the South Pacific. You can follow our
adventures on our blog. Feel free to contact us with any questions or comments.
Of the
changes, choices and compromises you had to make along the way, which were
you happiest and most satisfied about, which do you wish you had chosen
otherwise and why?
What
mistakes did you make as you started cruising?
Canucks abroad |
What (if
anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Kyra: The
funny thing is, people told us a lot of things. We had some great resources: Friends
who’d cruised extensively, like-minded individuals who encouraged us to go
simply and go now. They would mention certain discomforts or challenges they’d
come across, and I would nod. I realize now that I did not always grasp what
they meant, or did not see how affected by certain things I would be until I
actually experienced them for myself. For example, our friend Barb talked about
the boat’s motion when you’re offshore, and how it can still be exhausting and
frustrating even in not-so-terrible conditions. I grimaced, but was thinking “Really, how
bad can it be, unless we're in a storm!” It can be bad, let me tell you. I’m ashamed to admit that I
have had temper tantrums after running into the same table corner 5 times in 20
minutes of rolly seas. This is a roundabout way of saying, we were told plenty,
we just needed to have our own experiences.
Rick: It
won't be the experience you expect it to be. Some things that you think will be
hard, will be manageable. Some things that you think will be easy, will
drive you crazy. Things you hadn't really thought about will become the things
you most look forward to.
At anchor in the Sea of Cortez |
Kyra: We
started cruising abroad without a watermaker – for our first year in Mexico, we
lugged “garrafons” of water to the boat. Sometimes it was a real hassle; often
it was just another boat job. Through a series of events, we had the
opportunity to buy a second-hand watermaker which Rick installed at anchor
while we were in the northern half of the Sea of Cortez. It still feels like a
luxury to be able to make water at will. It has allowed us to go farther
afield, and be away from “civilization” for longer periods of time. While
cruising is more than doable without one, we are very happy to have a
watermaker now. (Of course, we had to compromise stowage, which is limited at
best on Nyon, that’s an ongoing challenge, made just a little harder with a
watermaker. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.)
Rick: In our pre-cruising life, we questioned a lot of the default choices made by peers, family, and our cutlure in general. We tried to make choices that were right for us. Sometimes our choices were outlandish, and sometimes they were common; but either way, we tried to make our choices consciously. We are happiest with the choices that took us off the usual path, or kept us in a great anchorage, after other boats had moved on.
Rick: In our pre-cruising life, we questioned a lot of the default choices made by peers, family, and our cutlure in general. We tried to make choices that were right for us. Sometimes our choices were outlandish, and sometimes they were common; but either way, we tried to make our choices consciously. We are happiest with the choices that took us off the usual path, or kept us in a great anchorage, after other boats had moved on.
Is there
something you wish you had bought or installed before starting out?
Kyra: I
would like to have an SSB radio – especially for when we cross to the South
Pacific – I can see how only having an SSB receiver and maybe a SAT phone would
be more isolating. And I like the idea of being able to use Sailmail to let our
loved ones know we’re okay when we are “out there”. The debate on that one
continues aboard Nyon. Also, it would have been nice to be better
prepared for the amount of snorkeling and fishing we are now doing – however, this has not
stopped us from pursuing our new passions.
Rick: Coming
from cold water sailing grounds, we underestimated the amount of time we would
spend, and number of things we would do in the water. We should have had more,
and better snorkeling gear, including spares. We took up spearfishing,
with a pole-spear, and hook and line fishing. We could have brought more of the
basic fishing gear with us. A lot of the gear available in Mexico is very
expensive, for the elite sport fishing business. Then there are toys like
kayaks, boogie boards, surf boards, kite-boarding outfits, etc. If we had
the money, and space, we would have it all.
As you
started cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
Kyra: I
think what I found hardest was not having my close friends nearby, we have been
fortunate in that they’ve come to visit us while we’ve been cruising in Mexico,
but it’s not the same as weekly coffee, art dates and gab sessions. Having said
that, we are lucky to have met some great folks while cruising (whom we are
sure to develop steadfast friendships with); but friendships take time to grow
and deepen, so at times I have struggled with the loneliness that comes with a
transient life.
Rick: It was
challenging to be alone together all of the time. We are both social people,
but when we initially started traveling, we had few opportunities to get to know
people. We would sometimes go weeks without anything more than superficial
conversations with strangers. Many of the boats we connected with, sailed
off in different directions. We were probably about 8 months in, before we
started connecting with boats that had similar cruising plans. We really
miss our close circle of friends.
Nyon doing what she does best Photo courtesy of Tom (SV Eagle) |
Kyra: Oh,
I know we’ve made lots of mistakes – when you’re new at something like voyaging, you’re bound
to. What’s important is learning from those mistakes. More specifically, I
mindlessly assumed that once I was out there, I would take to the lifestyle
just like that. I realize now that it takes time to develop a variety of skills
when you are actually voyaging, and they don’t necessarily come naturally or
quickly. Another
big lesson we had to learn was to limit the number of things on our to-do list
in a day. You’ll hear or read over and over again how long it takes to
get anything done. Grocery shopping can be a half day to a
whole day trek, etc. We have learned to limit what we expect to get done in a
day, which means we have a better chance to get that ”feeling of
accomplishment” instead of coming up short, and being exhausted and grumpy at
the end of the day.
Rick: We spent our first 2 months
cruising doing a lot of passagemaking. We were under-weigh for an average of
over 50 hours per week. We were moving along at a rate where we didn't feel
like we could really enjoy each place we stopped. The cruising was exciting,
but it felt a lot more like work than an escape. This is what we had prepared
for; our boat in motion all of the time. Once we slowed down, we began to
realize that cruising is really about enjoying the place you are in. We spend
almost all of our time at anchor, only moving along when we really want to. Our
focus and expectations had been very passage-centric. We weren't mentally
prepared, or as outfitted as we would have liked, for enjoying ourselves at
anchor.
What do
you find the most exciting about your cruising life?
Kyra: Voyaging
on a sailboat is not boring and that’s exciting! There is no room for monotony.
Some days I’m restless or frustrated, but I’m never bored. I love discovering
new passions, developing my skills as a sailor, observing the wildlife, being
at one with nature, pushing my comfort zone to new levels, and learning about a
different culture.
Rick: A good sail is still pretty great. There is nothing like reaching in a fifteen knot breeze with your destination appearing over the horizon. Fishing has become a lot of fun. I never really did much fishing back home, so my enjoyment of fishing has come as a bit of a surprise. I particularly like spearfishing. Seeing all of the different fish in the reefs is great, and there is something thrilling in the hunt, especially if it is successful.
Rick: A good sail is still pretty great. There is nothing like reaching in a fifteen knot breeze with your destination appearing over the horizon. Fishing has become a lot of fun. I never really did much fishing back home, so my enjoyment of fishing has come as a bit of a surprise. I particularly like spearfishing. Seeing all of the different fish in the reefs is great, and there is something thrilling in the hunt, especially if it is successful.
What is
something about the cruising culture you like and what is something
you dislike?
Kyra:) One thing we'd
heard and read, was how helpful the cruising community is. Complete
strangers will offer assistance in all kinds of amazing ways. In our
experience, we found this to be absolutely true. We have witnessed an
inherent generosity of spirit time and again within this community.
This is two-fold, however, cruisers can also be very opinionated and
pushy with how you should tackle a problem or issue - and that can be
exhausting and frustrating at times, especially when we disagree. This also brings up the herd mentality that sometimes takes over the cruising community. There can be some bullying if you choose the "wake less traveled" -
I think you need to be comfortable with your plans and choices, whether
or not the next two boats agree with you - it is important to build
trust in yourself and your boat. We have also found that we are often the youngest ones around.
And we are not that young: 40 and 43 years old respectively. We don’t usually
care how old people are, if we click with them, we click. Some of our favourite
cruisers are our parents’ age – but sometimes it is also nice to hang out with
people our own age or younger. You connect on a different level.
Rick: The cruising community has the village mentality of helpfulness and inclusion, that has disappeared from our home land-based culture. Boats are not only willing, but also able to help each other out with emergencies, and minor troubles. The more boats there are in a particular area, the more political the community becomes. I don't like the politics that are part of the bigger ports. The resources in the bigger ports draw us in, but the petty politics make the more remote anchorages even more attractive.
Rick: The cruising community has the village mentality of helpfulness and inclusion, that has disappeared from our home land-based culture. Boats are not only willing, but also able to help each other out with emergencies, and minor troubles. The more boats there are in a particular area, the more political the community becomes. I don't like the politics that are part of the bigger ports. The resources in the bigger ports draw us in, but the petty politics make the more remote anchorages even more attractive.
What is
something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn't find to be
true?
Kyra: Me
personally – I heard people say it can be boring. I don’t find cruising boring.
Sure there are times I feel restless, but bored? Never. I’m pretty good at
keeping myself busy and am getting better at sitting still, and staring out at
the sea.
Rick: We heard
that the people you meet along the way become instant close friends. The
reality is that we have a lot in common with fellow cruisers, but we make
friends, and develop depth in friendships in the same way we did before we
left.
What is
the key to make the cruising life enjoyable?
Kyra: Attitude.
It’s all about attitude. I’m not saying I always have the right attitude, but
it certainly helps me cope with unexpected challenges more constructively when
I manage to have a positive attitude. Also, being open to what is,
(instead of pining for what-should-be), has allowed us to appreciate
this incredible adventure all the more.
Rick: Life
is still life, while you are out in paradise. You leave behind a lot of the
responsibilities and baggage that is common with a shore-bound life. However,
you get used to what is normal. One sunny day, after another sunny day, with beautiful
sunsets, and warm waters become your everyday experience, you realize that your
enjoyment of life isn't dependent on your lifestyle. Don't wait to enjoy
life, until you are anchored off a tropical island sipping rum and coconut
water out of a fresh green coconut. Learn to enjoy life now, and then take that
enjoyment cruising.
How would
you recommend that someone prepares to cruise?
Kyra: Go
sailing, in all kinds of weather conditions. Learn to work on boat projects at
anchor. Seriously, get off the dock as often as possible, even if you have to
motor to get to an anchorage. It’s important to experience a variety of
conditions – you will find you need to adjust things such as: Where you stow
certain items, what you require for comfort, etc. This was especially true for us,
as we mostly anchor out. In 2012, we stayed at a dock for a total of 4
nights. Living aboard, (at least for a little while), ahead of time is not a
bad idea either – There is enough to adapt to as it is, once you begin to cruise
full-time. We lived aboard for 4 year in the PNW prior to going cruising, we
figured out how to give each other space in a diminutive living arrangement, as
well as how to move around each other as we go about our daily activities.
Finally, I also spent a lot of time reading a variety of cruising blogs – it’s
inspiring, informative, and fun!
Rick: Go
sailing. Go frequently. Get out for as long as you can. The only way to figure
how you want to set up your boat, is to use it. Use it in all kinds of
conditions. Live on your boat. The only way to figure out how you want to
set up your boat is to spend time on it. Get used to day to day living aboard.
Make sure your berth is comfortable. Learn how to make the most of the stowage
you have available. Every crew has different goals, a different cruising
style, a different boat. What is a good decision for one crew, is not
necessarily right for another. Consider the advice you get, try it on in your
head and see if it seems to fit. You and your boat will never be ready, so
cast off the dock lines and get ready along the way.