Nyon at 15 Months

Welcome Kyra and Rick to Newly Salted! Read this interview as originally published on their blog. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Canucks abroad
We are Rick and Kyra, our homeport is Victoria, BC, Canada. Our floating home is the sailing vessel Nyon. A Lapworth 36, Nyon is a 54 year old wooden sailboat that we refitted over a period of 4 years. (Admittedly we are still in the process of refitting her, but she is a solid bluewater boat.) We have been cruising full-time for 15 months. In September 2011, we sailed  from Canada, down the west coast of the United States, and into Mexico. We have been cruising in Mexico since November 2011. We are now in the Sea of Cortez. It is our hope to continue cruising for as long as it is possible (and fun), stopping to replenish the cruising kitty when need be. There are still countless places we would like to explore, including the South Pacific. You can follow our adventures on our blog. Feel free to contact us with any questions or comments.
What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Kyra: The funny thing is, people told us a lot of things. We had some great resources: Friends who’d cruised extensively, like-minded individuals who encouraged us to go simply and go now. They would mention certain discomforts or challenges they’d come across, and I would nod. I realize now that I did not always grasp what they meant, or did not see how affected by certain things I would be until I actually experienced them for myself. For example, our friend Barb talked about the boat’s motion when you’re offshore, and how it can still be exhausting and frustrating even in not-so-terrible conditions. I grimaced, but was thinking “Really, how bad can it be, unless we're in a storm!” It can be bad, let me tell you. I’m ashamed to admit that I have had temper tantrums after running into the same table corner 5 times in 20 minutes of rolly seas. This is a roundabout way of saying, we were told plenty, we just needed to have our own experiences.
Rick:  It won't be the experience you expect it to be. Some things that you think will be hard, will be manageable.  Some things that you think will be easy, will drive you crazy. Things you hadn't really thought about will become the things you most look forward to. 

At anchor in the Sea of Cortez
Of the changes, choices and compromises you had to make along the way, which were you happiest and most satisfied about, which do you wish you had chosen otherwise and why?
Kyra: We started cruising abroad without a watermaker – for our first year in Mexico, we lugged “garrafons” of water to the boat. Sometimes it was a real hassle; often it was just another boat job. Through a series of events, we had the opportunity to buy a second-hand watermaker which Rick installed at anchor while we were in the northern half of the Sea of Cortez. It still feels like a luxury to be able to make water at will. It has allowed us to go farther afield, and be away from “civilization” for longer periods of time. While cruising is more than doable without one, we are very happy to have a watermaker now. (Of course, we had to compromise stowage, which is limited at best on Nyon, that’s an ongoing challenge, made just a little harder with a watermaker. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.)
Rick: In our pre-cruising life, we questioned a lot of the default choices made by peers, family, and our cutlure in general. We tried to make choices that were right for us. Sometimes our choices were outlandish, and sometimes they were common; but either way, we tried to make our choices consciously. We are happiest with the choices that took us off the usual path, or kept us in a great anchorage, after other boats had moved on.

Is there something you wish you had bought or installed before starting out?
Kyra: I would like to have an SSB radio – especially for when we cross to the South Pacific – I can see how only having an SSB receiver and maybe a SAT phone would be more isolating. And I like the idea of being able to use Sailmail to let our loved ones know we’re okay when we are “out there”. The debate on that one continues aboard Nyon.  Also, it would have been nice to be better prepared for the amount of snorkeling and fishing we are now doing – however, this has not stopped us from pursuing our new passions.
Rick: Coming from cold water sailing grounds, we underestimated the amount of time we would spend, and  number of things we would do in the water. We should have had more, and better snorkeling gear, including spares. We took up spearfishing, with a pole-spear, and hook and line fishing. We could have brought more of the basic fishing gear with us. A lot of the gear available in Mexico is very expensive, for the elite sport fishing business. Then there are toys like kayaks, boogie boards, surf boards, kite-boarding outfits, etc.  If we had the money, and space, we would have it all. 
As you started cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
Kyra: I think what I found hardest was not having my close friends nearby, we have been fortunate in that they’ve come to visit us while we’ve been cruising in Mexico, but it’s not the same as weekly coffee, art dates and gab sessions. Having said that, we are lucky to have met some great folks while cruising (whom we are sure to develop steadfast friendships with); but friendships take time to grow and deepen, so at times I have struggled with the loneliness that comes with a transient life.
Rick: It was challenging to be alone together all of the time. We are both social people, but when we initially started traveling, we had few opportunities to get to know people. We would sometimes go weeks without anything more than superficial conversations with strangers. Many of the boats we connected with, sailed off in different directions. We were probably about 8 months in, before we started connecting with boats that had similar cruising plans. We really miss our close circle of friends. 

Nyon doing what she does best
Photo courtesy of  Tom (SV Eagle)
What mistakes did you make as you started cruising?
Kyra: Oh, I know we’ve made lots of mistakes – when you’re new at something like voyaging, you’re bound to. What’s important is learning from those mistakes. More specifically, I mindlessly assumed that once I was out there, I would take to the lifestyle just like that. I realize now that it takes time to develop a variety of skills when you are actually voyaging, and they don’t necessarily come naturally or quickly. Another big lesson we had to learn was to limit the number of things on our to-do list in a day. You’ll hear or read over and over again how long it takes to get anything done. Grocery shopping can be a half day to a whole day trek, etc. We have learned to limit what we expect to get done in a day, which means we have a better chance to get that ”feeling of accomplishment” instead of coming up short, and being exhausted and grumpy at the end of the day.
Rick: We spent our first 2 months cruising doing a lot of passagemaking. We were under-weigh for an average of over 50 hours per week. We were moving along at a rate where we didn't feel like we could really enjoy each place we stopped. The cruising was exciting, but it felt a lot more like work than an escape. This is what we had prepared for; our boat in motion all of the time. Once we slowed down, we began to realize that cruising is really about enjoying the place you are in. We spend almost all of our time at anchor, only moving along when we really want to. Our focus and expectations had been very passage-centric. We weren't mentally prepared, or as outfitted as we would have liked, for enjoying ourselves at anchor.

What do you find the most exciting about your cruising life?
Kyra: Voyaging on a sailboat is not boring and that’s exciting! There is no room for monotony. Some days I’m restless or frustrated, but I’m never bored. I love discovering new passions, developing my skills as a sailor, observing the wildlife, being at one with nature, pushing my comfort zone to new levels, and learning about a different culture.
Rick: A good sail is still pretty great. There is nothing like reaching in a fifteen knot breeze with your destination appearing over the horizon. Fishing has become a lot of fun. I never really did much fishing back home, so my enjoyment of fishing has come as a bit of a surprise. I particularly like spearfishing. Seeing all of the different fish in the reefs is great, and there is something thrilling in the hunt, especially if it is successful.
What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?
Kyra:) One thing we'd heard and read, was how helpful the cruising community is. Complete strangers will offer assistance in all kinds of amazing ways. In our experience, we found this to be absolutely true. We have witnessed an inherent generosity of spirit  time and again within this community. This is two-fold, however, cruisers can also be very opinionated and pushy with how you should tackle a problem or issue - and that can be exhausting and frustrating at times, especially when we disagree. This also brings up the herd mentality that sometimes takes over the cruising community. There can be some bullying if you choose the "wake less traveled" - I think you need to be comfortable with your plans and choices, whether or not the next two boats agree with you - it is important to build trust in yourself and your boat. We have also found that we are often the youngest ones around. And we are not that young: 40 and 43 years old respectively. We don’t usually care how old people are, if we click with them, we click. Some of our favourite cruisers are our parents’ age – but sometimes it is also nice to hang out with people our own age or younger. You connect on a different level.
Rick: The cruising community has the village mentality of helpfulness and inclusion, that has disappeared from our home land-based culture. Boats are not only willing, but also able to help each other out with emergencies, and minor troubles. The more boats there are in a particular area, the more political the community becomes. I don't like the politics that are part of the bigger ports. The resources in the bigger ports draw us in, but the petty politics make the more remote anchorages even more attractive.

What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn't find to be true?
Kyra: Me personally – I heard people say it can be boring. I don’t find cruising boring. Sure there are times I feel restless, but bored? Never. I’m pretty good at keeping myself busy and am getting better at sitting still, and staring out at the sea.
Rick: We heard that the people you meet along the way become instant close friends. The reality is that we have a lot in common with fellow cruisers, but we make friends, and develop depth in friendships in the same way we did before we left. 
What is the key to make the cruising life enjoyable?
Kyra: Attitude. It’s all about attitude. I’m not saying I always have the right attitude, but it certainly helps me cope with unexpected challenges more constructively when I manage to have a positive attitude. Also, being open to what is, (instead of pining for what-should-be), has allowed us to appreciate this incredible adventure all the more.
Rick: Life is still life, while you are out in paradise. You leave behind a lot of the responsibilities and baggage that is common with a shore-bound life. However, you get used to what is normal. One sunny day, after  another sunny day, with beautiful sunsets, and warm waters become your everyday experience, you realize that your enjoyment of life isn't dependent on your lifestyle. Don't wait to enjoy life, until you are anchored off a tropical island sipping rum and coconut water out of a fresh green coconut. Learn to enjoy life now, and then take that enjoyment cruising. 
How would you recommend that someone prepares to cruise?
Kyra: Go sailing, in all kinds of weather conditions. Learn to work on boat projects at anchor. Seriously, get off the dock as often as possible, even if you have to motor to get to an anchorage. It’s important to experience a variety of conditions – you will find you need to adjust things such as: Where you stow certain items, what you require for comfort, etc. This was especially true for us, as we mostly anchor out. In 2012, we stayed at a dock for a total of 4 nights. Living aboard, (at least for a little while), ahead of time is not a bad idea either – There is enough to adapt to as it is, once you begin to cruise full-time. We lived aboard for 4 year in the PNW prior to going cruising, we figured out how to give each other space in a diminutive living arrangement, as well as how to move around each other as we go about our daily activities. Finally, I also spent a lot of time reading a variety of cruising blogs – it’s inspiring, informative, and fun! 
Rick: Go sailing. Go frequently. Get out for as long as you can. The only way to figure how you want to set up your boat, is to use it. Use it in all kinds of conditions. Live on your boat. The only way to figure out how you want to set up your boat is to spend time on it. Get used to day to day living aboard. Make sure your berth is comfortable. Learn how to make the most of the stowage you have available. Every crew has different goals, a different cruising style, a different boat. What is a good decision for one crew, is not necessarily right for another. Consider the advice you get, try it on in your head and see if it seems to fit. You and your boat will never be ready, so cast off the dock lines and get ready along the way.
Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2012 by  and tagged   |  

Hafskip at 12 months

Ralph and Penny have been cruising for 12 months on Hafskip, a 43ft John Pugh Windsong hailing from Melbourne Australia.You can learn more about them, and see pictures of their vessel, on their site. Here is their self-interview:

Background and contact information
We have been water based for just on 12 months now...having given up land, full time employment and decent closet space for the challenges, excitement and joy of our vessel. In this short time we've been incredibly blessed with an amazing array of experiences that just can't be imagined if we'd chosen to set off with a backpack rather than a set of sails.

Ralph as Capt'n, has had a great deal of sailing experience and an incredibly handy background in motor mechanics and marine electronic systems (maybe one day he'll also learn to fish). I (Penny) on the other hand had never been on a yacht until the search for Hafskip commenced so has been on a rapid learning curve (unfortunately Human Resource Management consulting does not adequately prepare one for the cruising life).

Whilst we've been on board and bobbing around for just over a year, we didn't leave Australia until November 2010 as it took us a couple of months to get things moving as they should. You see Hafskip had been let lie on a mooring for nearly 18 months with only sporadic use, so we had a lot of work to do. She was also more of a coastal play thing rather than a blue water cruiser so there were changes to be made... some of which we are still chipping away at.

What general route did you take on your cruise:
Left Townsville Australia for PNG, skirted the PNG mainland, then headed east ,south of New Britain and then north via Rabaul, New Ireland via Kavieng to Chuuk (FSM). Island hopped westward to Yap then zipped down to Palau where we are currently anchored. We had planned to wait out the typhoon season in Palau before heading to the Philippines and then Indonesia, but now be heading back to PNG then on to the Solomon Islands to take up a volunteer assignment...gotta love being flexible.

What are some of your favourite pieces of gear on your boat and why?
Given we hand steered about 4,500 nautical miles after leaving Australia, we're unanimous in our joy at the acquisition of an autopilot! Every one of those miles spent doing 2 hour shifts, nursing callouses, sleep deprivation and back aches has made the purchase of an autopilot a cause for celebration.
Our Radar has also been pretty damn useful, not only has it meant we've been able to dodge canoes approaching an anchorage at night, but we've been able to monitor the speed and direction of squalls as they approach. You're only watching he rain associated with them of course but knowing how fast they're travelling greatly assists a decision to either heave to, divert or keep on moving.

Hafskip's Deck cover is also a favourite, as adequate protection from the elements has been a godsend. It's hard to imagine when day-sailing around your home turf that the sun, wind and rain can be so harsh, but when one is slowly boiling and burning in the middle of the Pacific without a lick of wind (often for days at a time) or alternatively being stabbed with pre-squall rain you realise weather protection is critical.

Probably our last piece of gear we wouldn't like to do without is our Pactor modem/HF Radio combo. With it we have been able to stay connected with friends, family and other sailors on passage and get weather information specific to our location. Whilst grib files are more affectionately known as 'fib' files they still give a good weather overview and they certainly help establish a weather pattern that is more often than not correct.

What piece(s) of gear would you leave on the dock next time? Why?
In terms of gear... we've tended to acquire stuff rather than jettison it, but you have to remember we were under-equipped in the first place. Contrary to even our own initial thoughts we have used pretty close to every piece of gear, every spare, every tool we brought along with us...and when we haven't used it we've found someone else who can.

The problem then arises as to how to store all this useful, vital stuff and that's where we've had to either prioritise or become creative with what and how we carry stuff. We have either given away, traded or vacuum packed clothes we don't wear. We have loaded videos and books on hard drives and kindle. We have almost used every nook and cranny below deck we can and despite this we are still picking up new and useful bits!

Is there a place you visited where you wish you could have stayed longer?
Our passage through the Federated States of Micronesia to Palau meant we were often in the company of some incredible people and remarkable beauty. We would happily have missed our visit to Chuuk State but as soon as we left it we were overawed by the kindness and generosity of the people we encountered in the neighbouring State of Yap. Unfortunately we were cruising through this region a little late in the season (we were there in April and Typhoon season starts in May) so we felt the need to press on a little and return to lower latitudes. I we could've we would've stayed longer at every stop we made!

Another amazing place was Gasmata in New Britain PNG.... Incredible people and stunning place...
There are a few blog entries on our website that cover these places and the rationale behind our decision to up anchor and leave when we did....so feel free to have a read if you're interested.

How often have you faced bad weather in your cruising? How bad?
We have travelled out of season a lot and mostly through the ITCZ (Doldrums) so aside from a couple of passages we have not had consistent trade winds. This means squalls are the norm for us, in fact we have been known to chase them just to get a little extra propulsion....but this doesn't answer the question.

Just to preface our response... the notion of 'bad weather' is directly related to one's ability to handle it. On our initial passages (bearing in mind I'd never sailed before) I (as the novice sailor) found bad weather to be any gust of wind over 25 knots, simply because I did not know how to handle it...now the same bluster simply requires vigilance and brings a smile to my face.

There is no doubt that sailing in the tropics will bring with it daily squalls. Wind gusts can easily reach 35 knots in a matter of moments and the accompanying rain can make your life pretty miserable for a while, but at least they do not usually last for long. Whilst a squall tends to hit you...a weather system is a little easier to avoid (sometimes) and we have been known to simply heave-to while waiting for a system to pass, divert or duck under it before it develops fully, but these are decisions and exercising the options available can control your experience of the weather.

Somehow I feel compelled to add here that in our experience so far, bad weather (in whatever manner you define it) is always a factor and it is rare that in a passage of 5 days or more to avoid it....How bad it has been however, depended on how well we have known our boat and how we managed the risks associated with it. These days, with the application of common sense 'bad weather' is simply a matter of sailing....some days more comfortable than others.

What mistakes did you make in your first year of cruising?
Thousands and still running a tab!

A couple of big ones though are related to our preparation for departure. Our shakedown in particular was not adequate for our purpose. A good shakedown requires days of open sea travel and a return to port to make the necessary repairs/alterations. We, on the other hand, simply did a couple of day sails and took off across the coral sea, which has meant all of the changes to Hafskip we've needed to make have been made in places that are poorly equipped and meant we have had to either be rather innovative in obtaining spare parts or have them shipped in (very inconvenient). We have also learned that a steel boat is an excellent choice for a first boat but it requires a very good paint job to cope with the demands of extended voyages...unfortunately because we took short cuts to get moving quickly it means we will have to haul out sooner rather than later...possibly even 12 months earlier than we'd intended.

Live and learn eh....This first year has been nothing short of an enormous learning curve but some of the things we've learned would have been moot in the early days as we had little concept of their importance. Sometimes you just have to go do it to know.

What is the most difficult aspect of the cruising lifestyle?
Dealing with mess, mould and maintenance can put a dampener on a good time but when you think about it it differs little from owning your own home (perhaps minus the mould).

People tend to assume cruising is one big holiday, but there's a lot of work to be done on a boat (any boat) and “another port, another part” has been our standard cry. Initially we found this a little disappointing but over time we learned everyone has repairs and maintenance to do...no matter how old, young or spiffy the boat was!

Dealing with personal challenges also rates here...one is continuously problem solving and there's always decisions to be made. Be it about an approaching weather system, an anchorage, the next port of call given prevailing winds, a part that can't be obtained or even where to put some newly acquired piece of equipment. There have been times when we'd have liked it to be easier and even had the odd throw-down, but we learned over time to simply 'get on with it' and take time to enjoy the good stuff when it arrives (of which there is plenty).

How do you learn about the rules and regulations of your next port of call before arriving or do you just arrive and find out?
This is a must do...research is vital...cruising guides, pilots, other cruisers and internet are all useful of course, but we have found blogs to be awesome when looking for the really useful goss. Blogs provide info about most technicalities for any port of call or passage you could imagine, and can provide an indication of costs/fees/bribes you are likely to incur or even the names of officials your likely to be paying them to. In short, to simply arrive would be a mammoth mistake.

It's not just the rules and regulations that require research either.... language and cultural distinctions, weather windows, seasonal variations, tide tables, alternate charts...and the list goes on. All of these mean that you're not only prepared for your arrival at a next port of call but you're prepared for most things you're likely to encounter after you check in.... even where to find your first, well deserved, land based beer.

It all sounds like an enormous chore but actually this is something we enjoy doing and keeps us amused during our passages. We often spend hours reading about secluded anchorages or simply learning more about the people and culture we're about to encounter.

What is a tip or a trick you have picked up along the way?
We sail to windward quite nicely but when we began to travel west along the equator we began to sail downwind, often in light winds. We have a whisker pole but it's use made for risky sailing in areas where squalls tend to make a sudden appearance. Our problem has since been rectified with a brilliant tip from a seasoned sailing couple on the yacht Asylum. Katie and Jim shared with us their 'pole thing' which involves the use of a good snatch block and pole positioning guys that enable the genoa to be reefed quickly without having to haul in the pole....absolutely awesome!

Aside from 'The Pole Thing' most of the tips and tricks we've learned have been behavioural. Probably the most useful relates to 'letting go'. Sometimes you have to relinquish control and simply wait for a more opportune moment to continue on. Unfortunately the sea doesn't always understand your schedule or your desire to make a repair in 3 metre swell, so there are times when doing nothing at all is the only choice you have.

In your own experience and your experience meeting cruising couples, can you convince a reluctant partner to go cruising and if so, how?
The decision to swap your land life for sea legs is not a small one and to be honest most of the other couples we met had made a joint decision. Whilst there may have been one partner with more experience than the other and perhaps a greater desire, the actual move onboard was one made as a couple so we haven't met anyone that required convincing.

As a result of different peoples experience and preferences we've noticed many different divisions of labour....ranging from partners that claim they sail single handedly with their significant other, to those that divide their new life straight down the middle. In our case I (Penny) didn't need convincing but I did need a little time to become useful. Luckily I had a good and patient teacher, although it should be said that the ability to remain patient in high risk situations is not everyone's forte and can be the cause of dispute. In our case we took a large gamble by departing with such limited experience, which in our case paid off but it's not necessarily something I'd recommend.

In short... in short I am sure it is possible to convince a partner to hit the waves but I would recommend that you don't. It needs to be a joint decision made consciously, with both participants in the journey happy and excited to be commencing it.

How would you recommend that someone prepares to cruise?
Unlike us I'd recommend a lot more time sailing in different weather conditions. I'd also recommend doing courses and cruising where possible on other boats, preferably before purchasing your own. If these activities are not possible or desirable, the next best thing would be to research til you drop. We read books, blogs, manuals, guides...in fact anything we could get our hands on and we scanned, burned and made notes on every topic we could imagine, from anchor winches to zodiac liferafts. We also spoke, emailed and posed questions in forums when our research came up short. All of these activities not only helped our preparation but have continued to assist us as we've cruised.

Mental preparation is perhaps a little harder. In our situation we found we simply had to learn flexibility and resilience as we went. Luckily we were reasonably well versed in such things otherwise we may well have thrown in the towel a lot earlier. As it stands now, we fully understand what a passage will bring... a lot of sunshine, a little sweat, maybe a few frustrated tears, a few nasty squalls, an inevitable malfunction of something and some tricky solving of aforementioned malfunction. That said, there will also be some days of 15-20 knots of constant wind filling the sails, crystal clear blue water, the odd dolphin playing at the bow, the occasional sporting tuna wrestled onboard, a few awesome full moon sailing nights, loads of amazing sunrises (often better than a sunset) and the most incredible feeling of achievement and satisfaction when you finally reach your next port of call.

Silas Crosby at 12 months


My name is Meredith Lewis and I am from Vancouver Island, Canada. I started sailing as a little kid when two of my Uncles built a 36 foot Brent Swain steel boat, the Silas Crosby. I spent most of my summers with one family or the other cruising up and down the BC coast. In 2003 I joined Steve at the end of his family's year long cruise to Mexico/Hawaii for the Hawaii-Victoria leg. I was sixteen and it was a great introduction to offshore sailing. In September 2010 Steve and I left Vancouver Island aboard the Silas Crosby bound for Chile. After stops in Mexico, Galapagos and Easter Island we arrived In Chile in April. The upcoming southern summer will be spent cruising in Patagonia. My website is www.meredithlewis.net.

Describe a "typical day" at anchor on your boat   
For lots of reasons, cost among them, we try to anchor whenever possible. In the nine months between Vancouver Island and Chile we spent less than two weeks tied up to a dock (the police dock in San Diego was the notable exception). One of the other major reasons is that we way prefer places where there are no docks - the more remote the better. In order to make this kind of lifestyle interesting/bearable, however, we have made sure that exploration off the boat is easy, possible and fun. We have two fourteen foot kayaks on board and gear for paddling in any kind of weather. Paddling allows us to explore places hard or impossible to get to by sailboat and allows us to get some of the exercise seriously lacking in a liveaboard lifestyle. It also allows us to be completely independent - if we had to coordinate dinghy rides constantly I'm not sure how long we would last. I know that Steve was worried at first about having the boats on deck in rough weather, but after three offshore passages the conclusion is that things seem fine.  

Describe a "typical day" on passage 
on your boat
While on passage we both spend lots of time reading. We both have Kindles and lots of digital books. Steve spends lots of time chatting on the radio (I chat when we set up scheds with boats we know - nets, not so much). I am learning to knit (although I spend more time thinking about knitting than actually knitting). Also, hours and hours are spent just sitting on deck and looking around. There is an amazing freedom to the singularity of the project of passage making; unlike most of life, which can be complicated and confusing, the project of sailing from point A to point B has a marvelous simplicity.  

What type of watch schedule do you normally use while offshore? 
From chats with other passage-making cruisers, I think that our passage routine is a little bit unusual. In the interest of being able to sleep for longer, we choose to stand six hour watches. We break the night into two - Steve stays up to talk on the radio for the evening and early night and wakes me up in the wee wee hours. I stay up until sun rise and then go back to sleep until noon. We are very relaxed about the schedule and things obviously change based on weather conditions. When on watch we do mostly all of the sail changes etc. alone. We have found that few things actually require two people and can usually wait until daylight/watch change. 

Tell me your favorite thing about your boat   
To be clear, it's not my boat. However, after my time aboard, I know it pretty well. It's hard, because I think my favourite thing about the boat might also be the thing that most commonly frustrates me. The boat is homemade and was built with function, not fashion, in mind. To this end, it works incredibly well - every system has been thought through and most are in their third or fourth reincarnations. Steve knows the boat inside out and is always looking for ways to improve things. However, it is not a luxury yacht - the center cockpit is small and very secure but not very comfortable. It is perfect for one or two people to sit in while sailing but gets really crowded when we try to socialise. The same goes for the main cabin. However, I wouldn't change this for the world - it speaks, I think, to one of the most important things to think about when considering a boat for cruising: what kind of cruising exactly are you going to be doing? The Silas Crosby is decidedly NOT a tropical destination, social drinks for all kind of boat. However, with the diesel heater, secure cabin and cockpit and pilot house/dodger combo it is perfect for the high latitude sailing that it mostly does.  

How often have you faced bad weather in your cruising? How bad?
We faced our worst weather in the last couple of weeks before arriving in Chile (at about 40 degrees south). Steve generally thinks that I am overly nonchalant about these situations but it's because I have total faith in the boat and the work and thought Steve has put into it over the years. From our few heavy weather moments, I have learned that it's rarely a mistake to have less sail and if the thought "perhaps we should chuck out that drogue" comes up, it's probably time for the drogue. We put out the jordan series drogue twice coming into Chile and it was really cool to see how well it worked. Another thing that we discuss a lot on board is how hyped offshore heavy weather gets - to be sure, it can be really challenging and definitely dangerous. However, if the boat is prepared and all of the sail combos/heavy weather gear has been thought through and nothing breaks, the boat will be able to handle it. It's all of the hard bits (ie. navigating near land) that is the really challenging part of sailing. 

What is your most common sail combination on passage?   
Our sail combos while offshore are almost totally dictated by the ability of the windvane to steer. Therefore, while sometimes we may be able to squeeze another half knot or knot out of the conditions, if the windvane is overpowered and can't steer, we're happy to reduce sail and go a bit slower in order to not hand steer. Therefore, we almost always have at least one reef in the main and more sail up forward. We are almost constantly reefing - both the roller furler head sail and the main (it has three reefing lines). Some squally watches I think I have reefed/unreefed ten times.  Another sail combo that we use to exhaustion whenever the wind is even remotely behind us is wing on wing with the headsail poled out. The whisker pole is unbelievable important, as far as we are concerned, and we are generally surprised by how few people have them/know how to use them. The boat seems to calm right down and great naps/book reads can be had. 

What do you miss about living on land?    
Life on board lacks almost all of the convenience of life on land. Everything requires effort and thought - grocery shopping almost always takes an entire day and requires lots of walking with a heavy pack and laundry either costs or takes a long time. I don't miss the convenience, but sometimes I miss the independence of living normally. Not many other twenty five year olds choose to live on a small sailboat with their uncle for a couple of years.  I definitely miss being part of a fixed community (remember running into people you know on the street? I don't) but that said the cruising community goes a long way to make up for that.  I also miss regular, land based exercise. When at anchor, it requires serious motivation to paddle ashore and go for a run. Things were awesome in Mexico when I could just jump overboard and swim for an hour. 

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?
Generally, I like the cruising community for the fact that everyone has opted for a life less normal. However, I was surprised and a bit disappointed by how hard so many people seem to try to make their cruising lives more closely resemble the lives they lived on land. It's hard to explain, but a few hours at the La Paz morning coffee hour will more than explain my point; so many people seem to spend so much time trying to make their lives on board easier rather than more interesting. Hours are spent trying to fix broken, superfluous systems rather than choosing the simple option and actually getting out to all the amazing anchorages a day's sail away. 

I was also surprised/disappointed by how few cruisers are seriously into sailing. It might sound funny, but it's overwhelmingly true. We are by no means purists - we have an engine and it lets us get places that would be seriously hard/impossible to get to by sail alone. However, sailing  is always the background project. We will wait days for wind to avoid motoring and are always pumped by perfect downwind conditions (does it get any better?). 

I kind of knew this before hand, but apart from a few notable exceptions, there are relatively few young people out there sailing. Obviously, it's an expensive project and not many can get the funds together to make it happen on their own. Without a doubt, if I see a boat with anyone under thirty five on board I'm bound to be knocking on the hull before too long.

All of this said, what an amazing community - friends are made fast and everyone has interesting stories to share.  

What do you think is a common cruising myth?
I think that it's important to acknowledge that cruising is pretty just like normal life; it's not always fun. We have met lots of people that seem to be waiting for the real fun to start - always looking into the future to the next destination for the moment when they will be stretched out on deck in a bikini with a margarita in hand watching the sunset. This is possible, don't get me wrong. However, with such fixed ideas of what success or fun looks like, it is too easy to be disappointed. Those who seem to be having the best time are up for anything and recount with relish the rainy, cold, windy moments just as readily as the sunny, margarita bikini moments.

What do you find most exciting about your cruising life?
Every landfall after being offshore is absolutely exciting (even if I pretend to be really nonchalant). There is something about gliding into a new harbour and dropping the anchor thousands of miles away from the last place it was dropped that is seriously cool.
Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2011 by  and tagged   |  

Eagle at 3 months

Tom Brown and Jeanne Walker sail aboard SV Eagle, a 36' Freeport Islander. You can follow their journey on their blog.
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We met in 2003 and our third date was on Eagle, Tom's first time on a sailboat. We were married in 2005 and the plan to sail away began to take shape shortly there after. We already had a great boat, a Bob Perry designed Freeport Islander. She is a modified full keel sloop, with a set of three large window down each side of the main salon. She is incredibly comfortable to sail, as well as a roomy live aboard boat. After an intensive complete re-fit of the entire boat, we sailed away from the dock, full time on April 19th, from Des Moines Washington.

What are your plans now?
Our first 90 days were spent doing a tour of the Canadian Gulf islands and Desolation Sound. Now we're back in the San Juan Islands, getting ready to head down the Pacific Coast in September on our way to Mexico.

Is there some place that you wish you could have stayed longer?
The farthest north we got was a place just above the Desolation Sound area called The Octopus Islands. We were able to take a stern tie back in a small cove in the north east corner that was just magical. Most of our travels were so early in the spring, that the weather was pretty miserable, and when we got to Octopus Islands, the sun came out and it was beautiful. There were some nice hikes, we caught fresh prawns and ling cod for dinner. Unfortunately, our water supply was running low, and there was a nasty red algae bloom in the water that prevented us from using our water maker. So we had to leave sooner than we had wanted.

What do you enjoy about cruising that you did not expect?
After a lot of years working in the corporate world, and noise and stress of the city, we have been awed by the pure quiet. Sitting in remote anchorages, the loudest thing being a song sparrow or a loon calling. Even the occasional air plane or other boat motoring by has seemed like a violation of our 'ear' space. In all our dreaming, that part never really occurred to us. Along with the silence, the clarity of the sky and the scenery. We've been so far away from even small towns that there has been relatively no smog, pollution or trash. It's nice to see a beach as it was long, long ago. The sky's are brilliant blue, the trees, deep green, the stars...well, there are stars!

Is there something from your land life that you brought with you that you feel silly about now?
Tom: I spent several years as a PGA Golf pro, and have my entire set of golf club, and two pair of shoes along. I gave up some valuable hanging locker space to have them along, and now am really considering it a bit silly. I guess time will tell on that one huh?

Jeanne : I've always wanted to try my hand at watercolor. I've got a drawer full of supplies. I've also been reading on the techniques and steps involved. I'm not sure that we have the space on board for me to start a project. Perhaps when we're in a warmer climate, I'll pull out the colors!

Is there something from your land life that you brought along that you are especially glad to have along?
Jeanne: My cookbooks, good knives, pans and utensils. After 10 years of living aboard, it was all here anyway, - I've moved many of my cookbooks to a box in an attic!

Tom: Given the amount of photography work we do, the only thing I can think of is our cameras.

Share a piece of cruising etiquette.
Every one talks about other boats anchoring too close, and that has been a problem a couple of times, but my pet peeve right now is the speed which some people run their dinghy’s around the anchorages. Even when there is no posted speed limit or “No Wake” zone, a small amount of common courtesy would go along way when you need to go from point “A” to point “B” and my boat is on that direct line. I feel that if you need to run your dinghy right next to my boat at the highest possible speed, there better be a medical emergency.

How did you (or did you?) gain off shore experience?
Jeanne: I was a participant in the 1994 Pacific Cup race from San Francisco to Hawaii on the first all women team. I also was part of the delivery crew returning a sailboat from Hawaii after it completed the Vic-Maui race, and a delivery up the Pacific Coast. I've been boating since I was a baby, and sailing since about twelve.

Tom: I had never even been on a sailboat prior to meeting Jeanne, and have yet to really have any offshore experience. I've been off shore in fishing boats, and helped deliver a large power boat to Seattle, but no real off shore sailboat experience. It was a steep learning curve, but some great coaching from Jeanne, and some local racing around the Puget Sound have helped a lot.

What would you recommend to someone preparing to cruise?
One of the things we are truly happy about, is that we had lived aboard for a while prior to starting this adventure. You might be cooped up for several days if the weather turns bad or you have a long crossing. You will be spending a lot of time with the other person on the boat, in a smaller space than usual if you have been living in a house or apartment. We encountered several straight days of rain when we took off to Canada and were glad we had something of a routine down for the close quarters living. Bad weather only intensifies this, so it is best to have gotten used to sharing these cramped quarters at a time when it is not forced upon you. The other thing would be to make sure that you have things to do together, and things that you can do apart. Hobbies or other interests, that can be done apart will make your time together way more enjoyable.

Make sure your communication with each other is good. Be able to say, “ I need some space”, or alone time, and don't take it personally when it's said to you. 

Get into the habit of putting things away after you've used them or removed them from a locker, and back to the place it came from. It's amazing how fast an 'explosion' of clutter can happen!

Your routine 'systems' make everything run smoothly – like how you tie up your lines, and sheets, stow things in a locker, or turn off systems at the end of a passage. If your system works, for you, do them the same way, every time.

What did you do to make your dream a reality?
Jeanne: For many years, 30 +, I've dreamed about living on a sailboat and traveling. For many years I lived in small apartments, or rooms, and didn't gather or collect 'stuff'. I read most of the cruisers stories. If there was some 'change' I could make while on land, that they did while cruising, I did it to make the transition to a boat easier.

The reality came in steps. First, I purchased a boat on which I could live and sail locally. That was good. Then, I found the best partner/mate – Tom, and together we revived the 'sailing off' part. Next, plan it: We budgeted what we wanted to leave with in our cruising kitty, how soon we could pay off the boat, the projects we wanted to do to the boat, courses to take, etc.,and how much time it would take us to reach those goals on our current incomes. Once we figured that and set a date we were very particular about any expenses not related to our goal. Being realistic about our incomes, expenses, the projects and a good balance of work and play got us here. The closer we got to our departure date, the more intense the work became, knowing the 'play' would get balanced out once we left.

What else did you do beside sail?
We both enjoy photography, exploring by dinghy, foot and sometimes bicycle when in an anchorage. Tom likes to fish, enjoys messing around with the SSB, and writing stories for our blog. Jeanne likes to cook, do an occasional sewing project, and writes stories about our adventure for our niece and nephews. We're both voracious readers and often flip a coin for time in the hammock.

Class of 2011

Three Sheets NW is doing a series on cruisers casting off the docklines from the Pacific Northwest in 2011. The first two interviews are already published and you can keep track of the series here.